Riau, Indonesia

Riau province is one of the fastest growing parts of Indonesia in terms of economic, population and tourism. Riau Province occupies the central part of eastern region on Sumatra Island, which straddles between Malacca Straits, South China Sea and Berhala Straits. The Province is a strategic region as it directly faces Malacca Straits and Singapore, one of the busiest shipping lanes in the world.

Riau is one of the richest provinces in Indonesia. This province is rich with natural resources, particularly petroleum and natural gas, rubber, and palm oil. The majority of the province is heavily forested lowland; logging is a major industry in the province.

HISTORY

Riau Islands were ruled by Malay kingdoms in the 16th century. The kings found it difficult to maintain their power because aside from fighting sea pirates, they also had to fend off attacks from Portuguese, Dutch and English who were keen in controlling this southern entrance of the Strait of Malacca--a strategic place for trade with China and India back then.

Oil was found near Pekanbaru, the capital of Riau, before World War 2. The first oil well was drilled in Minas, about 10-15 kms away from Pekanbaru. To this day, oil has become one of major sources of wealth in Riau Province.

LOCAL INTEREST

          1 . SIAK SRI INDRAPURA

The town of Siak Sri Indrapura at the mouth of the Siak river was once the seat of a great Malay kingdom that from 1723 to 1946 held sway over the seas around the entrance of the Malacca Straits all the way to Sambas in present-day West Kalimantan

The Siak Sri Indrapura kingdom was founded in 1723 by Raja Kecil Sultan Abdul Jalil, after he failed to gain the succession to the Johor-Riau throne. Nevertheless, he soon succeeded in developing his kingdom into a strong maritime nation, strategically situated at the entrance to the busy Straits of Malacca, which at the time was being fought among the European colonizing powers of Britain, the Portuguese, the Dutch as well as the Malay kingdoms on both sides of the Strait. Sultan Abdul Jalil was a descendent of the great Pagaruyung kingdom of the Minangkabau in West Sumatra.

In its quest for suzerainity, the kingdom of Siak was supported by the Orang Laut - the sea gypsies – who were – and still remain - an inseparable part of the sea trade and traffic around the islands.

In 1946, the last sultan of Siak, Sultan Syarif Kasim II decided to join with and integrate his kingdom into the Republic of Indonesia. Siak is now a district in the province of Riau on Sumatra. 

The people of Siak are staunch Muslims and have spread the religion from here to other parts of Sumatra, including to the Minangkabaus. Nonetheless, as regards the matter of inheritance of a house, Siak still follows the Minangkabau matrilineal tradition, namely that a house is bequeathed following the female line.

Today, the town of Siak, officially called Siak Sri Indrapura, is a beautiful and clean town with wide and well paved avenues, situated some 2 hours by car from the province’s capital city, Pekanbaru.

TO DO :

Siak has a number of attractions that are well worth a visit. Chief among which is of course the Palace , known as Istana Siak Indrapura.

Built in 1889 by Sultan Syarif Hasyim (1889 – 1908), there are in fact 4 palaces here , most important among which is the Siak Palace, set in a total estate of 32, 000 sq. meters. They are the Istana Siak, Istana Lima, Istana Padjang, and Istana Baru, each standing on 1,000 sq meters land.

The architecture is a fusion of Malay, Arab and European styles. Istana Siak has two storeys, the ground floor is where receptions and meetings are held. There is a lounge for men and another for women. On the upper floor are the chambers of the Sultan and the queen, as well as rooms for special guests.

On the roof are 6 statues of eagles, the emblem of the Sultanate, while in the gardens are 8 cannons.

Another beautiful building is the Sultan Syarif Hasyim Mosque which is also the town’s Islamic Center. The mosque has 5 large blue domes encrusted with yellow patterns.

The Tengku Agung Sultanah Latifah Bridge spans the Siak river and is 1.2 km. long. It has four lanes for two way traffic , and pedestrian streets on either side. Its fences are painted yellow with green ornaments, and it has picturesque Malay lamps for lighting. In the middle are two towers with lifts that can take one to an upper room. The local government plans to convert these into restaurants where diners can sit and watch the river and the sunset. 

Turap is a park along the Siak river where people can sit and watch the river pass by, with a romantic view on the large Sultanah Latifah Bridge. People come here to watch the sunset and the food offered at the many cafes.

GET THERE :

Siak Sri Indrapura is 2 hours by car from Pekanbaru, or 1.5 hours from the town of Pangkalan Kerinci. You can rent cars in Pekanbaru.

          2 . MUARA TAKUS TEMPLE

Located some 122 from Pekanbaru, capital of the province of Riau, the Muara Takus temple complex (or Candi Muara Takus) is built by the Kampar Kanan river. Muara Takus has the largest brick buildings on Sumatra found remotely in a jungle clearing. 

The main Candi Mahligai is a tall stupa flanked by ruins of several other brick sanctuaries. Its tall shape differs from the normally bell-shaped Buddhist stupas found on Java. The temple is constructed of river boulders, sandstone and earthen bricks and was restored in 1980.

The complex is surrounded by a 74m x 74 m wall, with another earthen rampart of 1.5km x 1.5 km surrounding this, stretching to the edge of the Kampar Kanan river. Within the walls are found the Candi Tua, Candi Bungsu, the Mahligai stupa and the Palangka. In the complex is also found a mound believed to be the place for cremations. 

These Buddhist remains pose an enigma to archaeologists as to the date that they were actually built, which they estimate to have been constructed either in the 2nd, 4th 7th or 9th century. 

It is, however, known that during the 10th century, the kingdom of Crivijaya located further south near present-day Palembang was a thriving learning center for Buddhism, where even Chinese pilgrims were said to study on Sumatra first before proceeding to India. 

It is said that the Muara Takus bricks were made in the village of Ponkai above the temple complex, where inhabitants carried the bricks, handing these over to one another in a long line all the way to the complex. This means that the temples were built jointly with the inhabitants. 

The Muara Takus complex is the only temple complex found in Riau, evidence that Buddhism had spread here during the early centuries.

GET THERE :

Muara Takus can be reached by road either from Padang, West Sumatra or from Pekanbaru, Riau.

          3 . PELALAWAN

Pelalawan is a Regency of the Riau Province, currently one of the richest provinces in Indonesia due to its abundance of natural resources, making it the economic hub of the island of Sumatra. It covers an area of nearly 14,000 square kilometers, most of which is located on the Sumatran mainland, but also includes a group of offshore islands. Pelalawan’s larger islands are Mendul, Serapung, Lebuh and Muda, while the smaller ones include Ketam, Tugau and Labu. Pelalawan Regency is well-known as a producer of fiber plantations, natural rubber and palm oil.

Pelalawan spans a variety of geographical conditions: dense forests, expansive plantations, peat bog plains and alluvial rivers. Simply the natural beauty of the region is enough to attract tourists, but especially catches the eye of the adventurer. With vast and diverse stretches of both terrestrial and marine charm, from the Kampar River to the Straits of Malacca, Pelalawan’s great outdoors are just waiting to be discovered.

The history of Pelalawan began in 1726, when a royal descendant by the name of Pelalawan stood on the banks of the River Kampar. A Kingdom was later established under the reign of Sultan Syed Abdurrahman Fachrudin, who ruled from 1811-1822. The Pelalawan Kingdom existed until the Independence of Indonesia in 1945, when the kingdom joined the Republic. The regency is inhabited by various indigenous peoples of various ethnicities, including Malays, Minang, Batak, Acehnese, Javanese, Sundanese, Banjar and Bugis. Though differences exist among these ethnic groups, harmony thrives in this fertile land. Also living in the region is the ancient Mamak tribe, who dwell in the forests, as well as the Bajau sea tribes.

TO DO :

Dominated by forests, rivers and islands, Pelalawan is a great destination for adventure seekers to bask in the magnificence of nature. Stroll through the far-reaching stretches of oil palm plantations, to better understand the process, and appreciate all that goes into our basic necessities.

Go Surfing on the Kampar River Most think that surfing activities are reserved for the sea, but unbeknownst to many, the Kampar River boasts great and terrible waves and remains the only surf-able river in Indonesia. This natural phenomenon is known by the local residents as Bono, but has also acquired the name, Seven Ghosts. Bono Waves occur due to pressure coming from two opposing currents , when the Kamar river down currents meet the upcoming tidal waves from the sea. Waves can attain a height of 6 meters and reach speeds of up to 40 km per hour. Bono waves do not occur all year round, so the best time to visit (if this is the nature of your visit) is between November and February. Kampar River is located in the village of Meranti, about 4 hours over road or 3 hours by speedboat from the capital city ofPangkalan Kerinci.

Tesso Nilo National Park covers over 38,000 hectares of lowland forest, some of the largest remaining rainforests on the island of Sumatra. The park spans across two regencies: Pelalawan and Indragiri Hulu. This forest houses an impressive collection of 360 species of flora, 107 species of birds, 23 species of mammals (including 3 species of primate,) 50 species of fish, 15 species of reptiles and 18 species of amphibians. Surveys conducted by the Center for Biodiversity Management over 1,800 plots of tropical rainforest around the world show no other plot to contain as many species of Vascular Plants as Tesso Nilo Park. The critically endangered Sumatran elephant and Sumatran tiger also call this forest home, but sad to say, their numbers are declining dramatically, due to poaching and illegal logging. Almost a third of the park has already been deforested.

Upstream from Kampar River lies the Tajweed Lake. Bordered with wooden lake cottages and dotted with fishing rafts, the life on the lake may seem simple, but will surely bring a smile to your face. Tajweed is named thus, as its shape seems to resemble a mark of Arabic Script. The lake brings a source of livelihood for locals around the area. Observe the local methods of fishing, or even try it yourself!

The Tombs of the Pelalawan Kings can be found in the Pelalawan village, near the Kampar River banks where the Kingdom was born. Royal Winged Palaces can also be found in this village.

The Equator Monument, as its name suggests, is located at exactly 0 degrees latitude, in Dusun Tua Village, approximately 56 km from Pangkalan Kerinci. Surrounding this monument are simple shelters to rest and sample the local product of the area: honey.

Other interesting places to visit include Langgam Village, Betung Village, and the Kerumutan Forest Reserve.

GET THERE :

From Pekanbaru, you can hire a car to take you to Pangkalan Kerinci, the Capital of Pelalawan. It is approximately 70 km away, or 1.5 hours’ drive.

          4 . KAMPAR RIVER

Only recently discovered by the international tidal river surfing community, the Bono Tidal Bore by the estuary of the Kampar river in the Riau Province is drawing surfing communities from around the world to this amazing Indonesian pororoca. 

In February 2013, tidal bore surfer champion Steve King, who already holds two world records for long distance surf rides, broke his own Guinness World Record that he made on the Severn river in England, by riding an incredible 20.65 km (or 12.8 miles) in 1 hour, 4 minutes on the Bono bore of the Kampar river on 10-13 February 2013.

Kampar is a long river that rushes down from the Bukit Barisan mountain range that forms the spine of the island of Sumatra along its west coast. The river then meanders through the Riau province, to finally pour out in the Malacca Straits, on the east coast of Sumatra. Along its long course the river dvides itself into two large branches known as the Kampar Kanan (the right branch of Kampar) and Kampar Kiri (its left branch). They then converge at Langgar in the district of Pelalawan at Kampar’s estuary. Here they are joined by many other rivers causing Kampar to funnel out into a wide river mouth. At each high tide, high waves from the sea flow in and meet the down stream current of the Kampar. Where the two opposing energies meet, - and furthermore, caused by the funnel shape of the river, - Kampar’s phenomenal tidal bores emerge, rushing deep inland reaching to over 60 km. upriver. 

These tidal bores are known locally as “Bono”, which rush in with loud roaring sound at a speed of 40 kilometers an hour. The surf on the river can rise as high as 4 to 6 meters, at times creating barrels, the darling of surfers.

Best site to surf by the village of Teluk Meranti, although there are other spots like Tanjung Sebayang, Tanjung Pungai, and Pulau Muda, all in the district of Pelalawan.

Although quite used to the phenomenon, local inhabitants are mostly scared when the Bono appears, which they believe are spirits of the Seven Ghosts. Many boats have sunk in this river when caught in the bore.

TO DO :

At the moment, those who travel to Kampar are mostly avid surfers, eager to catch and conquer Kampar’s awesome tidal waves.

Surfers coming here for the first time to Kampar need to know that waves on the river behave differently than in the open sea. Because of the strength of the oncoming tide, currents that rush upriver will cause waves from both the right and the left sides after hitting both river embankments, next to streaming in directly from the center of the river mouth.

The river and the banks are said to be inhabited by crocodiles and snakes. While crocodiles are mostly found higher upstream, it is wise to beware of these predators when surfing on the river. Snakes, nonetheless, are around but most are non-poisonous and are of the constrictor kind, like boas and pythons.

Taking these challenges in mind, it is wise to use a speedboat that is best adaptable to the river’s conditions. There are speedboats availabe in the town of Teluk Meranti, but according to experts and those experienced, they are not quite right, nor sufficently agile to help in emergencies.

Therefore, when surfing on the Kampar it is best to use an experienced company or organization that knows local conditions.

As travel to Teluk Meranti usually passes Pekanbaru, you can find a number of attractions around the city and its surroundings. 

Other activities that are fun to do when you are not surfing is rent a motorbike and scour the countryside to watch activities of the village.

GET THERE :

The ride from Pekanbaru to Pangkalan Kerinci lasts 1.5 hours, then from here to Teluk Meranti takes another 4 hours. Alternatively you can take a speedboat from Pangkalan Kerinci to Pulau Muda or Teluk Meranti, which takes around 4.5 hours.

Whereas, when you travel from or through Singapore, the journey to Teluk Meranti is by sea through a rather arduous route. From Singapore’s Ferry Terminal take a boat to Sekupang in Batam, then connect with a ferry to Tanjung Batu, in the Karimun Islands, where you can find ferries to take you to Teluk Meranti.

          5 . TESSO NILO NATIONAL PARK

Located in the Riau province, the Tesso Nilo National Park is arguably the largest lowland rainforest on the island of Sumatra. Today the Park covers an area of 83,068 hectares, having grown twice as large from the former 38,576 hectares in 2004 when it was designated as a National Park. Tesso Nilo stretches along 4 districts, namely the districts of Palalawan, Indragiri Hulu, Kuantan Sengingi and Kampar. Tesso Nilo is planned to be expanded to cover 100,000 hectares to serve not only as the lungs for the Indonesia archipelago but also for the world. 

Riau used to have large tracts of jungle, however, because of large scale wild fires, and the building of palm oil plantations, almost two third of primary forests here has been destroyed. For this reason, to stem further degradation, the government has mapped out the area as a National Park, while plantations already in the park are being reverted to the jungles. 

Even so, biologists assert that the Tesso Nilo Park still contains abundant tropical vascular plant species, surpassing those found in the Amazon region. The park is habitat to Sumatra’s endangered elephants, tigers, and tapirs. There are boars, deer, sun bear and other wildlife. 

In 2012 Tesso Nilo counted some 150 elephants, while WWF found tracks of 50 Sumatran tigers. Nonetheless, the close proximity of the Park to human settlements still cause wild elephants to wander into villages and are, therefore, considered as pests by the local inhabitants. Illegal logging and wildfires also continue to threaten the Park.

TO DO :

Tesso Nilo is a fantastic destination for nature lovers. Riding on an elephant trained by the Flying Squad, you can survey the jungle, watch animal tracks and animal homes, and admire the tall and sturdy ancient trees found in the park. The tame elephants are also trained to chase away willd elephants back into the jungle.

By the ranger station where visitors stay, one can observe wild animals grazing or roaming, while others are hopping around among the dense foliage in the early morning or in the evening. 

There is also an observation tower near Camp Flying Squad. From its heights you can overlook the park and it is the best point to watch awesome tropical sunsets and sunrises.

It is also possible to charter a boat up the Nilo river passing thick forests, especially to where it joins the Tesso river. Rangers say that this is the best preserved part of the Park, and the most intact. Boat rental is around Rp. 300, 000.

In the park are Sialang, or wild honey trees where local inhabitants harvest honey. Before the harvest, they perform the Honey Gathering Ceremony to ensure the sustainable harvesting of honey. Such ceremonies may also be held upon request.

Do not forget to take home this natural honey with you, which is excellent for your health or buy it for friends and family.

GET THERE :

To enter the Tesso Nilo National Park, one must first have a permit, signed by the Head of the Tesso Nilo National Park, which can also be obtained at the WWF Headquarters at Pangkalan Kerinci at Pelalawan, Riau. Tel. no. : +62 781 494728. 

Pangkalan Kerinci is about 5 hours from Pekanbaru, capital of Riau province. WWF can also arrange your tours and accommodation in the park 

All visitors must be accompanied by a ranger. There are two check points before you enter the Park, where the permit and accompanying ranger are required. The permit costs Rp. 45,000. 

From the WWf headquarters to the Park it takes about 3 hours by motorbike, passing palm oil plantations, farmland and cleared jungle.

There are as yet no regular bus services from Pekanbaru to the Park. So best is to travel by car to Kerinci, and from there take a motorbike to the Park.

          6 . PEKANBARU

Pekanbaru is the capital of Riau Province and is the third largest city on the island of Sumatra, after Medan in the North and Palembang in South Sumatra. A large and clean city, Pekanbaru is better known as a business city for its exports of crude oil, palm oil, and pulp and paper. It is cut from west to east by the Siak river, which serves as river transport. 

In the old days, the town was a main trade and distribution hub for commodities and goods that include coffee and coal produced in the highlands of theMinangkabau in West Sumatra, to be carried to the busy trading ports along the Straits of Malacca.

The palace of the Sultan of Siak also lies at the mouth of the Siak river by the Straits of Malacca in the town of Siak Sri Indrapura, some 130 km. northwest of Pekanbaru.

Lately the Riau province has come into international limelight when UK’s Steve King broke his own world record by surfing up the Kampar river on the Bono bore, covering the length of 20.65 km (12.8 miles) in 1 hour and 4 minutes, setting a new World Record for the Longest, Continuous Bore Ride. 

Also by the Kampar Kanan river In a jungle clearing are the ruins of the enigmatic 9th century Muara Takus Buddhist temple complex. Muara Takus lies 122 km. from Pekanbaru. 

At Indonesia’s Independence in 1945, Riau was one with its neighbouring province of the Riau Islands, situated south of Singapore and Malaysia. Together they formed part of the larger Johore-Riau kingdom. Today, Pekanbaru is capital of that part that lies on the larger island of Sumatra only, that is known as the province of Riau, while the town of Tanjung Pinang on Bintan island is capital of the Riau Islands province , which include among others, Batam, Bintan, Karimun and the Natuna Islands. 

Around Pekanbaru you will find miles of palm oil plantations, and a number of oil drillings in Dumai and Rumbai. The town also has a number of manicured Gof courses and boasts a large Sports Center. 

Because of its history, Pekanbaru is a cosmopolitan city inhabited by a number of ethnic groups, including Malays, Minangkabau and a sizeable Chinese population.

TO DO :

There are a number of attractions that you can go and see while in Pekanbaru. Do take time to see the Sang Nila Utama Museum at Jalan Sudirman, which relates the history of Riau

Located next to the museum at Jalan Sudirman is the Balai Adat Melayu Riau, or the Riau-Malay building which houses art and cultural legacies.

The Idrus Tintin Arts Hall is a landmark of the city with its architecture fusing Malay and modern elements. Events are held in this building regularly. 

For a glimpse of the life of the Chinese community in Riau, browse through the Chinese-Malay Quarters on Jalan Dr. Leimena and Jalan Karet.

Pekanbaru also has a number of recreation parks, among which the Labersa Waterpark at Labersa Parit Indah, which has a waterpark, a golf course and a 5 star hotel.

The other is the Taman Puteri Kaca Mayang Park at Jalan Sudirman located right opposite the municipal office, that offers fun for family recreation, fishing and outbound activities.

Golf lovers will be spoilt with a choice of golf courses. Besides the Labersa Golf Course, there is the Pekanbaru Golf & Country Club, the Simpang Tiga Golf Course, at Simpang Tiga, and the Rumbai Golf Course at Rumbai Chevron Camp.

For shopping, Pekanbaru has a number of malls, Hotel Swiss-belinn Pekanbaru is located in the SKA mall. Pasar Bawah is an interesting market that sells antiques, ceramics, old lamps, and a lot of interesting bric-a-brac.

GET THERE :

As a business city, Pekanbaru is easily accessible by air and overland. Pekanbaru’s airport is called the Sultan Syarif Kasim II International Airport.

Overland, Pekanbaru is connected to Medan and Padang by highways. The bus terminal is at Bandar Raya Payung Sekaki.

          7 . KERUMUTAN FOREST RESERVE

Kerumutan Forest Reserve is a Wildlife Reserve spanning over 1.3million hectares of lowland forests, and inhabited by hundreds of species of flora and fauna. The grand Kampar River runs along its border, lined with thick mangrove trees. The reserve’s boundaries are the Kampar River, the Indragiri River, the East Coast of Sumatera, and Jalan Lintas Timur Sumatera, the Cross East Sumatra Highway. The forest extends across two regencies,Pelalawan and Indragiri Hulu, in the RiauProvince, in the central part of Sumatra.

Kerumutan’s carbon rich peat-lands are some of the largest remaining carbon reserves in the world, which make the forest a key defense against climate change. The area is composed of 75% peat and 25% dry marsh, with much of the area’s peat reaching deeper than 3 meters, making it illegal to clear under Indonesian law.

Kerumutan is well known as a haven to the critically endangered Sumatran Tigers, Sumatran Elephants and Orangutans, and is also habitat to Sunbears, Hornbills, Long-Tailed Macaque, White Egrets, Arowana Fish, Wild Ducks and Crocodiles, to name a few. The forest has also become a destination for a variety of migratory birds, and has been recognized as an Important Bird Area (IBA,) and an Endangered Bird Area (EBA.)

In addition to migrants from other parts of Sumatra, Java and the Malay coast, the area around the forest is inhabited by certain indigenous people, such as the Duanu Tribe and the Petalangan Tribe. Government census puts the population of the Kerumutan Forest Reserve at about 27,000 persons.

Kerumutan was established as part of the UNESCO Biosphere Reserve Network in 2009. Biosphere Reserves are globally considered as sites used for the conservation of biological and cultural diversity and economic and social development between people and nature. These sites are also used to demonstrate innovative approaches to sustainable development, both locally and internationally.

The forest consists of three main types of soil, and is therefore divided into three areas: Kawasan Inti, or Core Region, covering about 93,000 hectares, Peat Protected Areas, currently covering 52,000 hectares, but which may potentially be expanded, and the Non-Core Regions, a group of preserved forest ecosystems, covering 1,178,000 hectares.

Despite being a National Reserve, much of this area has been designated towards industrial plantation development and the landscape is actively being drained and cleared.

TO DO :

Upon entering the Forest Reserve, roads are lined on either side with neat rows of towering palm trees. When you reach Pangkalan Kopau, the entrance to the wooded area, you can continue your tour by motor-boat, along the tree-lined corridor that is the Kerumutan River. Amidst the deep, lush rainforest, once the sounds of the motorboat cease, all that is left to be heard are the crisp and clear songs of the birds from the surrounding foliage.

The stretches of peat-swamp forests are worth exploring to examine the various elements of the swamp ecosystem. Living within the swamp are wild ducks, white egrets, arowana fish and even crocodiles. Bring binoculars and try spotting the hornbills perched high within the canopy overhead, or observe the varying species of migrating birds, if it is that season. Long-tailed Macaques swing from treetop to treetop, and if you’re lucky, you may even see tigers or bears resting amongst the branches.

GET THERE :

From Pekanbaru, you can hire a car to take you to Pangkalan Kerinci, the Capital of Pelalawan. It is approximately 70 km away, or 1.5 hours.

Kerumutan Forest Reserve is located in the Village of Kerumutan, Pelalawan. This is about 2 hours away by road, across rocky terrain, or alternatively, you could hire a car direct from Pekanbaru, which will take approximately 4 hours by road, followed by an hour by speedboat.